There are advantages to taking an overnight train, bus or plane. You can save money by sleeping while you travel instead of paying for a hotel. It also lets you maximize your time by traveling at night so you have more free time during the day. But there is no guarantee. If you are in a lousy seat or a crowed train compartment you may get no sleep and spend the entire trip awake.
That's what happened in 1985 when I decided to take an overnight train from Paris to Madrid. I was on a budget. I arrived in Madrid early in the morning, still jet lagged from my trans-Atlantic flight the previous day. I quickly found a hotel and the woman at the front desk told me I could leave my bags and check in "later." I was exhausted but I had nowhere to sleep so I set out to explore the city. That's how I ended up outside the beautiful Royal Palace of Madrid where this photo was taken.
Royal Palace of Madrid in 1985
I wandered around some more, exchanged some money and eventually headed back to my hotel. I was hungry but I wanted sleep more than I wanted food. The hotel finally let me check in and I went to my room and took a nap. I woke up a couple of hours later. My stomach reminded me that I hadn't had anything to eat since I got off the train.
I left the hotel in search of a restaurant. At the time of my visit, Madrid was a city of more than 4 million people. It should be easy to find a place to eat. But what I didn't know, or at least didn't remember, is that EVERYTHING shuts down in Spain for a siesta. I looked everywhere trying to find a place to eat. Nothing and I mean nothing was open. No stores, no restaurants, no fast-food places, nothing.
I was still tired and decided I would go back to the hotel to take a nap until things opened up. At the hotel, the front door was locked and a sign said they would reopen later. They were also having a siesta.
I couldn't get in the hotel so I really had no place to go. I was tired and frustrated and didn't really have the energy to keep walking around. I found a bench and waited at least an hour, maybe longer.
Finally, I saw a restaurant that was opening. I was the first customer of the evening. At this point in my life, I didn't know a word of Spanish. The waitress handed me a menu that was all in Spanish. I just pointed at something. I was so hungry, I didn't care. She brought out a dish that was meat and rice. It was delicious, or at least, that is what I thought. It might have terrible, but I was so hungry, it didn't matter.
After dinner, I went back to the hotel and went to sleep. I would explore Madrid more the next day.
I haven't been back to Madrid, other than an overnight stay at a airport hotel in 2017. However, I would love to visit again. Next time, I won't take an overnight train.
Dates of Travel
- March, 1985
- August, 2007
- August, 2017
- May and June, 2022
Places Visited
- Madrid
- Barcelona
- Ibiza
- Granollers
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